Gastroanthropology

Burns Night Feast

Through the magic of food I went to Scotland last night for a Burns Night Feast, without actually going to Scotland. What is Burns Night you say? Well, its actually today, January 25th, the birth date of Robert Burns (1759-1796). A feast celebrates Scotland's favorite champion of the common man, poet and balladeer. He is best known for poems like A Red, Red Rose; To A Louse; the famous Auld Lang Syne; and, of course the Address To A Haggis.

A celebration dedicated to a man who writes a poem about boiled lamb and beef innards with oatmeal? The Scots really are a fabulous bunch. Burns Night Feasts feature Scottish classics and copious amounts of whiskey.

Last night at Mudchute Kitchen's Burns Night Feast we had:

Haggis is a must for any Burns Night Feast. Rumor has it that the best haggis in all the world comes from Macsween's. The haggis was so flavorful and delicious, and of the few times I've had haggis, this was the first time I can truly say I enjoyed the flavor. Macsween's also has a vegetarian haggis that is tasty as well. The haggis was served alongside another Scottish dish, Neeps 'n' Tatties, or turnips (more likely rutabaga's in the winter) and mashed potatoes.

Before addressing the haggis, we had Cullen Skink. I first tried this smoked haddock soup last spring on the Isle of Skye, and was very excited to have another taste. The smoked haddock stands up to the potato and cream perfectly making the most scrumptious soup.

For dessert, Caledonian Cream was served. It's whipped cream cheese and heavy cream with orange marmalade and whiskey. Chunky orange peel marmalade is actual of Scottish origin, invented in Dundee in the late 1700s. 

Thinking of your own Burns Night Feast? You could also include some other Scottish favorites like Cock-a-Leekie, a Scottish chicken soup with leeks and prunes; Scottish smoked salmon; Caboc, a rich, creamy cheese rolled in oats and Scotland's oldest, dating back to the 1400s; and, Typsy Laird, a dessert made with layers of sponge cake, raspberries, custard, oats, and whiskey. If in doubt, just lace everything heavily with whiskey!

The only thing missing from last night's feast was a True Scotsman!

Western Scotland + Cranachan & Shortbread

Last weekend Nate and I escaped to the Western Highlands of Scotland. We took a quick flight from London to Glasgow and then drove just a few miles to Loch Lomond. Because its so far north it stayed light till past eleven and by five it was bright again. Calm, peaceful, and full of fresh air, we sat by the lake and our bodies started recovering from the stress and pollution of our city lives. We got up early next morning and started the day with some scottish porridge (they like it a bit salty, rather than sweet!) and potato scones. The "major" roadway was this tiny two lane, that often became a single lane and was lined with a dense forest of trees and these purple flowers. All the glens, lochs, and shires, covered in a low mist made my imagination go wild - I imagined all sorts of creatures, witches, dragons, and mystics lurking about.

 

We headed even further north to Fort William where we took a short detour to Ben Nevis and discovered these amazing highland cows. Nate and I hopped a fence and walked as close as we dared.  

Highland cows are quite rugged with gobbs of shaggy burnt orange hair. Its an absolute necessity for them as they live in a cold climate with lots of rain. In order to make our ferry for the Isle of Skye we had to race off. We had just enough time to get some real shortbread before the boat left in little cafe - it was amazingly moist, crumbly and salty. 

After a rainy ferry ride we drove to the town of Portree, with a quick whisky stop along the way. Nate chose Talisker, the local whiskey. I'm nowhere near a whiskey aficionado, but I could tell the older the whiskeys were, the better they tasted. We enjoyed the Talisker with some local kippers, or oak-smoked herring. When we arrived in Portree we had a really great dinner that started with mutton terrine, which sounded a bit questionable but was absolutely divine. Hot grilled scallops served over cool asparagus soup and broiled local sea bass followed. No room for dessert this night. 

The following morning we headed to Kilt Rock - we got soaked in the process from some pretty heavy rains, but it was a must to see.  

 

By the afternoon the weather did a complete turn around and we went for a long walk. We saw this fishing vessel dump little salmon smolts into these fish farms where they are fattened up. 

Farmed salmon are often born in salmon nurseries and grown to the stage where they are ready for their first migration (smolted). This is just off the coast of Portree. Scotland provides 80% of the United Kingdom's aquaculture production. Scotland is the number one producer of farmed salmon in the EU and third in the world behind Chile and Norway. With growing problems in Chile's salmon fisheries, Scotland may become a bigger player, especially as an exporter to the United States.

Rather than go through every meal I'll just say that we tried every local Scottish thing possible. We had salty porridge, kippers, haddock (in the form of fish and chips!), Scotch Broth (think Stone Soup), langoustine (a.k.a Norway lobster or scampi), Cullen Skink (smoked haddock soup with potatoes, onions, and cream), scottish beef burger, salmon, and shortbread. But, I've had all these in some form away from Scotland. There was, however, one thing that was new to me. It was simple and Scottish. Cranachan.

What is it? A simple dessert of whipped cream, smushed raspberries, toasted oats, sweetened with a little scottish honey and spiked with a little Scotch. It was served to us with some Scottish shortbread alongside. I had to recreate it once we came back to London. I know by now I should call it home, but I feel like I'm betraying something in my heart if I do.  

CRANACHAN

Per serving you need: 1/4 cup heavy cream - whipped, 7 or so fresh raspberries, 1 Tbs toasted oats (in a pan over medium heat for about 30 seconds and cooled), 1 tsp runny honey, and a splash of Scotch (optional). 

Measure cream to how many servings you need. Whip the cream and then add the raspberries. Whisk them in so they break apart and turn the cream pink. Add the toasted oats, honey and Scotch. Serve with shortbread (recipe follows).

SCOTTISH SHORTBREAD

4 oz unsalted butter, room temp

1 tsp vanilla extract

1/4 c sugar, will need more for sprinkling

1 c (scant) flour

1/4 tsp sea salt, will need more for sprinkling

 

METHOD

 

Cream butter, vanilla, and sugar for about one minute. Add flour + salt and mix in with a wooden spoon. When the dough forms into one, put onto a lightly floured surface. Knead the shortbread dough for at least one minute.  Add a bit more flour, but only if the dough is really sticky. Pat into a quarter-inch high disk and cut out with a biscuit cutter in the size of your choosing. Arrange on a sheet pan and sprinkle with sugar and sea salt. Bake at 350F / 180C until the edges turn slightly golden, the time depends on the size of your shortbread. Mine took about 10 minutes. 

Rumbledethump, Eton Mess & Other British Fare

Toad - In - A - Hole, Devils on Horseback, Welsh Rarebit, Buck Rarebit, Rumbledethump, Eton Mess, Scotch Woodcock, Bangers & Mash, Spotted Dick... sounds like a list of twisted spells of a crazed witch rather than a list of traditional British fare. I've decided to attempt making some of these new-to-me foods. 

Cabbage is a staple here in the United Kingdom and I can always find some at the local farmers market. Savoy cabbage - the most regal sounding and looking cabbage there is...

Perfectly braised for Bangers & Mash...

Potatoes, of course, seem to be included in some form at every British meal, and I used some of these Maris Pipers (the more yellow potato on the right) for my first attempt at Rumbledethump. 

In an effort to use more cabbage and potatoes and try some of these British foods with the most interesting of names I made Rumbledethump for dinner. It's actually a Scottish dish and is basically a mashed potato, rumbled and thumped with cabbage, onions, butter, and cheddar cheese. 

RUMBLEDETHUMP

• 1.5 pounds potato 
• 1/2 c chicken stock 
• 1/4 c milk 
• 6 Tbs butter, divided into 3 and 3 
• 1 head savoy cabbage 
• 1 onion, small dice 
• salt and pepper  
• 1 1/2 c loosely packed, shredded, cheddar cheese 

METHOD

Clean potatoes and cook in low boiling water for mashing. Meanwhile, chop onion and shred cabbage with a knife, removing any tough ribs and core of cabbage. Saute onions and cabbage in 3 Tbs of butter, adding salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat when cooked through and just before onions and cabbage start to brown.

When potatoes are cooked through, drain. Roughly mash by hand, adding chicken stock, milk, 3 Tbs butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Adjust liquids if necessary. Stir in cooked onion and cabbage. Put mixture in baking dish and sprinkle top with cheddar cheese. I used an English Farmhouse Cheddar. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes at 375F/ 190C. Broil the top for a few minutes at the end to brown the top. Serves 4 as a side dish.

This goes great with grilled sausages or porkchops. After you've eaten Rumbledethump you need something light and sweet to finish the meal. Which leads me to an Eton Mess. An Eton Mess, is a mess of meringue, ice cream, and strawberries. It was created at Eton College, an all boys school, founded in 1440 by King Henry VI. The Mess isn't as old, but a British favorite, especially in the summertime.

Meringue I can do, ice cream is a bit heavy so I went with whipped cream, and strawberries are months away from being on my radar screen, so I used raspberries. I've never had Eton Mess so this is my interpretation. I like my Messes to be clean, small, and bite-sized. I had some extra meringue so I made a few bite-sized pink peppercorn meringues too.

I've seen so many recipes for meringues that have cream of tartar or vinegar. I find this completely unnecessary. All you need for meringue is egg whites, sugar, and a mixer or strong arm muscles. For every 1 large egg white use 1/4 c powdered sugar. Beat egg whites till frothy and white. Slowly add sugar and continue beating egg whites. When egg whites are stiff, pipe into desired shapes onto a silpat and bake in a low oven 200F/ 90C with the door open slightly for about 4 hours. Sometimes I leave overnight in a gas oven with just the pilot on. Remember to store in an airtight container if your not using them right away.

ETON MESS

Make meringue nests using the directions above. To serve 4 people use 2 large egg whites and 1/2 c of powdered sugar. Pipe meringue rounds to your desired size. When the meringue is finished baking, top with whipped cream. Sprinkle with raspberries or strawberries. 

PINK PEPPERCORN MERINGUE

Pipe meringue into desired shapes, keeping them bite-sized. Sprinkle with pink peppercorn before baking. About 3 to 5 peppercorns per meringue. They will stick to the meringue and there is no need to press them in. These will keep for 3 days in an airtight container.

Old Smokey + Ginger Cookies

Edinburgh Castle

Nate and I have become weekend warriors. Not of extreme sports or excessive drinking, but of European cities. This past weekend we did Edinburgh, Scotland in 48 hours. We walked the Royal Mile, toured Edinburgh Castle, hiked Arthur's Seat, shopped on Princes Street, explored the National Museum of Scotland, and visited the birthplace of Harry Potter.

Edinburgh is called "Old Smokey" because all the chimneys used to spew thick smoke from burning coal and wood. Though the town has lost its hovering fog of smoke the soot still sticks to the buildings and there is a darkness to the town. The world of goths, dragons, witches and mystics seems to have a heavy influence on the present day city. It doesn't take much imagination to picture the infamous Deacon William Brodie roaming the streets. Brodie was the notorious respectable businessman by day and burglar, adulteress, gangster, and gambler by night.

The Witchery

Woman accused of witchcraft were burned at the stake in Edinburgh and in the 16th century more witches were torched alive than anywhere else in Europe. Edinburgh certainly sparked my interest in the history of witches and I couldn't help but believe that there must be something real about witchcraft.

A few hours before our train was due to leave for London neither of us could walk another step so we decided to stop for a rest at The Elephant House were JK Rowling wrote her first Harry Potter novel.

the elephant house

We decided to be very English and share a large pot of tea. I still can't stomach milk in my tea so just had straight earl grey but Nate takes his with milk. I treated us to a ginger chocolate cookie as well. Ginger chocolate? Yum. But, not a cookie combination I'm too familiar with. We sat under a window, probably at the same table where JK Rowling sat when writing Harry Potter. It was easy to imagine how the story came to her as the view looked straight up at a cloud-covered Edinburgh Castle.

At this point I realized there was not a single bit of chocolate in my ginger chocolate cookie. Even though everyone speaks English in the UK, there are times when the British and Scottish accents make English seem like a foreign language. I must have misheard the guy at the counter. But it got me thinking...I have a fabulous ginger cookie recipe. It's a mildly spicy, gingery cookie that crisps up minutes after coming out of the oven, but not too much crisp for me to call it a snap. Could it be enhanced with some chocolate chips? Only one way to find out.

Ginger Chocolate Cookie

GINGER CHOCOLATE COOKIE

• 1 c sugar
• 1/4 molasses (black treacle in UK)
• 6 oz unsalted butter, room temp
• 1 egg, room temp
• 10.5 oz all purpose flour
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp ground clove
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp ground ginger
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 6 oz chopped dark chocolate or chips

METHOD

Sift dry ingredients and set aside. Beat together sugar, molasses, and butter for one minute. Add egg, beat until mixed in. Fold in dry ingredients. Fold in chocolate chips. Bake 8-10 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit or 180 degrees Celsius. Tip: I like these cookies thin so if they puff up a bit more than I like I tap the cookie sheet just as I pull the cookies out of the oven.

Though I enjoyed the cookie with chocolate it's just as delicious without it. The Scottish love of ginger doesn't end with a cookie. Just a few centuries ago only special bakers could bake gingerbread and it was often limited to baking during Yuletide. Ginger is candied or made into bread, snaps, ale or jam. Ginger came to Europe from Asia during Roman times and again with the Spice Trade. In medieval Scotland ginger was used as a preservative and because its intense flavor masked the flavor of aging meat and old bread. This weekend I tried ginger preserve for the first time. The ginger was muted with a mix of apples and pear preserves, but delicious on toasted, crusty bread. Edinburgh just got us more intrigued with Scotland and we will certainly be back to explore more of the Scottish low and high lands.