Gastroanthropology

Halloumi Salad

After a whirlwind Easter Weekend in western Austria and southeast Germany that included some skiing and lots of bread dumplings... 

and Bavarian pork knuckles...

I needed something on the lighter side for lunch today. Simple and easy - Halloumi Salad. Halloumi is a cheese that comes from Greece and Turkey. When aged, the sheep's milk (or goat's milk) cheese is firm enough to be grilled and still hold its shape. I often pan sear a few thin strips of halloumi in a small pan and add to a salad for lunch.  

Here I have it with some beets and jarred marinated artichokes over lamb's lettuce. I find its not necessary to dress the lettuce because the halloumi is quite salty and the marinade dripping from the artichokes is flavor enough.

But, back to Austrian foods...we did sample plenty of apple strudel on our trip. Nate and I had lengthy discussions about the necessary characteristics of the best apple strudel. We agreed on ratio of apple to strudel dough, texture, and level of sweetness. We disagreed on the presence of raisins. He likes them, I couldn't care less of they never existed. So, of course, apple strudel recipe testing begins at home and posting should soon follow.

Shallot Tarte Tatin

My most favorite dessert could quite possibly be Apple Tarte Tatin. Caramelized apples and no chance of a soggy crust. In fact, caramelized anything often tops my list of favorites. While I pick raw onions out of anything, slow-cooked caramelized onions or shallots often make something good into something fabulous. Last week, when an Aussie friend shared with me a recipe for Shallot Tarte Tatin she had recently come across, I knew I had to give it a try.

The original recipe, which came from Delicious, was good, but I tweaked it a bit. First, I added reduced chicken stock to the shallots to give more depth of flavor. I also added some fresh lemon thyme. Finally, I baked the whole thing in the same cast iron skillet that the shallots cook on the stove with, just like a real tarte tatin. The original recipe has you transfer the cooked shallots into a baking dish - didn't see the point. The shallots cook, low and slow, first on the stove, and then topped with a whole grain mustard dough, continue their journey in the oven. 

The result is a soft, sweet, melty, syrupy shallot on a crumbly, savory, gently mustardy crust.    

SHALLOT TARTE TATIN

For the Grain Mustard Crust

• 125 g all-purpose flour
• pinch salt
• 60 g unsalted butter, cold and cut into pieces
• 1 Tbsp whole grain mustard
• 1 large egg yolk
• Ice water, if necessary

For the grain mustard crust combine the flour and salt in a bowl. Add cut pieces of butter and mustard. Rub the butter and mustard into the flour with your fingertips or pulse in a food processor until combined. Make a well and drop egg yolk in. Mix in till just combined. If dough is too dry add a sprinkling of ice water. The dough should be a bit crumbly. Pack into a circular disk, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

For the Shallots

• 375 g small shallots (about 10)
• 25 g unsalted butter
• 1 Tbsp olive oil
• 2 Tbsp light brown sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp balsamic vinegar
• 5 Tbsp reduced chicken stock (bring 1 cup of seasoned chick stock to a boil and reduce to 1/2 cup)
• 1 Tbsp picked lemon thyme leaves

To prepare and easily peel the shallots - bring enough water to a boil to completely immerse the shallots. Drop shallots into the boiling water for about 5 minutes. Drain and let cool a bit. Peel the shallots, taking care to make sure they remain intact at the root. Halve the shallots. Some will naturally halve, if not, then gently cut through the root so the shallot stays intact. Preheat oven to 350 F.

In a small cast iron skillet (8 to 9 inches) melt butter and olive oil on low. You will leave the stove on low the entire time. Once melted gently place the shallots in the pan. Cook for 15 minutes, gently rotating the shallots once at 7 minutes. In a small bowl whisk together brown sugar, balsamic vinegar, reduced chicken (or vegetable) stock, and the picked lemon thyme leaves. Pour over the shallots. Continue to cook on low for an additional 20 minutes. At 10 minutes rotate shallots a second time, taking care not to break them apart.

Roll out the whole grain dough to about 1/3 inch thick and in a circular disk large enough to cover all the shallots. Remove the shallots from the stove and place the dough on top. Gently press down onto the shallots and trim the edges so only a slight lip remains.

Bake for 20 -25 minutes at 350 F, or until the crust browns slightly. Remove from oven and immediately invert onto a plate.

Cut and garnish with fresh lemon thyme. Best served hot and immediately. Will serve 4 as a side to roast chicken or grilled steak. 

  

Danish Smørrebrød

When you are a trained chef people always ask, where do you go to eat? A chef working in fine dining often craves traditional, simple, good food. If you work in restaurants, chances are your only day off is Monday. So where do you go for lunch on a Monday in Copenhagen when its icy, cold and covered in snow?

Told & Snaps for Smørrebrød. 

It's best to arrive via bicycle (chosen method of travel by Danes in Copenhagen, even in the deep of winter!). 

I went with a chef friend for an early lunch. We sat at a table for two. As the afternoon progressed chefs from the best in Copenhagen trickled in (just getting out of bed of course, as chefs are notorious for sleeping breakfast away). Soon we moved to a table for four, then six, then eight. Lucky for me - most of the chefs hail from Scandinavian countries and knew just what to order.

Smørrebrød are open-faced sandwiches served on buttered rugbrød (Danish for rye bread). I was in absolute rugbrød heaven as I stumbled bakery-upon-bakery serving all sorts of this tangy, seeded, dense bread.

At Told & Snaps there are over 30 different smørrebørd and 2 to 3 are recommended per person for lunch. Classics include lun stegt sild i lage - fried and marinated herring.

This smoked eel with scrambled egg (røget Ål med røræg) is one of the most popular dishes and a delicious combination.

Can't leave Scandinavia without a little fishcake...fiskefrikadeller med hjemmerørt remoulade.

Fish is followed by a Danish classic of meatballs served with red cabbage - lune frikadeller med rødkål og surt.

Nørrebro Bryghus is a local Danish beer and produced carbon neutrally.

Another classic smørrebrød is beef served with shaved horseradish and pickled vegetables...Oksebryst, kogt i porter med pickles og peberrod.

You can't leave Denmark with having a bit of pork. Why not start with warm pork rib roast and red cabbage? Ribensteg fra fritgående grise.

It's tradition to wash all this rich food, like warm liver pate with bacon - lun leverpostej med bacon og agurkesalat...

with a bit of housemade snaps (Danish for a small shot of strong alcohol, like the German schnaps)...

Potent and a touch sweet we choose elderflower akvavit to cut the richness of the smørrebrød. We also had some housemade walnut akvavit which was equally lovely.

Told og Snaps, Toldbodgade 2, 1253 København. 

The Backhandspring Sandwich.

You know you're onto something amazing when people start giving the foods you make special names. My best friend has a cake that has been dubbed the 'Get a Man Cake'. A cake so delicious men fall in love with you when they have a slice. I also know a chef in San Francisco that has a dessert so good it's been referred to as 'Panty-Dropping'. A dessert so tasty that women consider dropping their undergarments once she's tasted it. I'll work on getting them to let me reveal their secrets to the foodie blogosphere, but in the meantime I'll share with you one of my own.

The Backhandspring Sandwich...

A sandwich so good that a few people have be tempted to throw their bodies into backhandsprings upon taking a bite.

First make the sauce...3 parts full-fat or homemade mayonnaise to 2 parts good grain mustard. Add a touch of ketchup and a sprinkling of chopped chives. Stir together with a pinch of freshly ground pepper. Set aside. Cook up thick cut, meaty, smoked bacon. Slice and gently toast thickly sliced wholewheat or soft ciabatta. I toast my bread because it gives it a chance against the sauce, but only gently. Really toasted bread makes it difficult on the roof of your mouth when biting into this little monster. I always avoid baguette or dutch crunch when I make this sandwich because the crusts of those types of bread just seem to get in the way. Slice up tomatoes and avocado. You will also need good quality sliced turkey breast, cleaned mixed greens, including a not-to-peppery arugula. If you want a triple flip, followed by your backhandspring, add a fried egg.

Assembling the sandwich. Slather each piece of bread with the sandwich sauce. Layer all the ingredients...I always try to avoid the tomatoes touching the bread if it needs to travel any sort of distance. 

Chicken Pot Pie + Winter Slaw

Was it me mourning the sudden death of summer? Chicken pot pie and colorfully delicious root veggies in season, along with cold temperatures outside - so, its actually enjoyable to stand near a hot stove - why was I dreading winter? Actually, the torrential downpour that soaked my summer-tan gone to pale skin in the three-block-walk from the tube stop to my apartment summed it up last night. 

Well, it is our second winter here in London, and as it gets dark at 4PM we are reminded how far north we really are. Curling up on the couch with loads (so English, I mean "lots"!) of books, woolen blankets, and hot chocolate season has officially started for me. Fall is actually the time when English farmers markets shine with seasonally grown products. Homegrown root veggies from beets...

to carrots...

are at their best. Not to mention alliums from leeks to garlic to shallots to onions are also at their peek. Having fattened up all summer, meat, game, and poultry are also ready for slaughter. Huge numbers of locally caught fish and shellfish are in season as well, which is the best time to eat them to preserve fish stocks. Lastly, my favorite winter fruits - apples, pears, and quince - are gorgeous right now. Fall is definitely and English cook's dream if you are trying to avoid imports.

CHICKEN POT PIE

This chicken pot pie uses the meat from a previously roasted chicken. Since leeks are in season, I've used tons of leeks for their delicious mild onion flavor. Use the recipe as a guide and substitute with what you have, what you like, and what is in season for you. Making a pot pie is a great way to use up leftovers, especially after Thanksgiving. Turkey for chicken, a bit of brussels sprouts, mashed sweet potato, cranberry, etc. all mixed up with gravy and covered with a bit of puff dough - yum!

I haven't noted specific amounts because this is not a time for measuring - make as much as you need. Just make sure you have enough puff dough to cover your pot pie.

• Roast Chicken meat (cooled and shredded)
• Leeks 
• Corn
• Green beans
• Celery
• Butter
• Flour
• Chicken stock (and drippings if you've saved from the roasting)
• Heavy cream
• Salt + Pepper
• Parsley
• Puff Pastry dough
• Egg wash

METHOD

All vegetables used should be cleaned, seasoned, and pre-cooked. Toss together shredded chicken and vegetables. Make a gravy - start by making roux with the butter and flour, add drippings, add chicken stock and finish with a small amount of cream. Pour over the chicken + vegetable mixture and toss together. Add chopped parsley and salt + pepper to taste.

Place in a baking dish (large or individual - whatever you fancy (so English, I mean "whatever your like"!). Place thinly rolled puff pastry over the top of the mixture. Dock the dough to let steam escape. Brush with egg wash and cook in a 350F oven until the puff dough is cooked through and golden brown.

Serve alongside a winter slaw - the more colorful the better. 

WINTER SLAW

• 1 c shredded beets
• 1 1/2 c shredded carrots
• 1 c shredded cabbage
• 1/2 c thinly sliced celery
• 1 small handful of parsley, roughly chopped
• 1/2 c pomegranate seeds
• salt to taste
• 1/4 c freshly squeezed orange juice
• 2 Tbs olive oil
• 1/2 c walnuts, toasted and roughly chopped

METHOD

Shred and cut as needed. Toss all ingredients together. You can make this ahead of time, but add walnuts just before serving.

Everything used in the pot pie recipe was locally sourced. For the slaw there were four exceptions - olive oil, oranges, pomegranate and walnuts. But, oranges, pomegranate, and walnuts are in season in other parts of the world! If you are in England and want to be totally local - omit the pomegranate, orange juice (substitute freshly pressed apple juice), walnuts (substitute toasted pumpkin seeds), and olive oil (use rapeseed oil).

Also, if you can, try and visit a farm. When you see how the foods you eat are grown and reared, the choice for organics and sustainability is easier to make. Support farmers who practice better treatment of animals and that are stewards of the land they grow on. If you can afford organics, buy them, and hopefully, with time, that will help others afford organics as well.