Gastroanthropology

Dutch Baby + Blood Orange Curd

In honor of Pancake Day (aka Shrove Tuesday, Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras...) I decided to treat myself to a Dutch Baby with silky smooth blood orange curd. A Dutch Baby is a German Pancake, but Dutch Baby sounds so much more fun, and I've got babies on the brain (less than a month till the due date!). The name is a bit confusing because the Dutch tend to make thin, crepe-like pancakes so enormous they engulf a plate and peak over the edges and a Dutch Baby is a puffed, cakey pancake. However the name came to be, the Dutch Baby is delicious. Dutch Babies bake in the oven so if you are the one who tends to man the pancake griddle while others enjoy hot pancakes, try this because the entire pancake is cooked whole and then slice into portions (you could of course bake little individual Dutch Babies in baby cast iron skillets too). 

DUTCH BABY PANCAKE

• 4 eggs
• 1 Tbs vanilla sugar, or sugar with 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
• pinch salt
• 4 Tbs butter, room temp

METHOD

Preheat oven to 400°F. Place your cast iron skillet into the oven to heat up. I use two 8-inch skillets for this amount of batter and this recipe serves 4 people. You could also use cake pans if you don't have a cast iron skillet.

Make sure your eggs and milk are cold. In a blender whizz eggs and sugar for a minute and then stream in cold milk. Continue to blend till frothy, add sifted flour and pinch of salt and blend for 1 minute. Make sure everything is well incorporated - the flour can stick to the sides.

If using two pans, divide butter in half. Take hot skillets out of the oven and put a portion of butter in each. It should melt quickly - swirl around the pan. Pour the batter into the skillet(s). Put in oven and bake for 20 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 350°F and continue to bake for an additional 10 minutes. The edges should be puffed and golden brown. When it first comes out of the oven it will be puffed all over and by the time you get it to the table to serve the middle will deflate.

Serve with Blood Orange Curd, recipe follows. The heat of the pancake gently melts the curd and the end result is divine.

You can also have the Dutch Baby with any sort of pancake topping - warm maple syrup, macerated berries, and fresh lemon juice with sugar are some of my favorites. If you want to go a bit savory try warm maple syrup with bits of crispy smoked bacon.

I had lots of juicy blood oranges from Italy and decided to tweak my lemon curd recipe for blood orange curd. This method for making curd is a bit different than most citrus curd recipes - read through before making. It also should be made the day before you want to serve it so it has a chance to set up to the perfect thickness. The end result is a super rich and silky curd.

 The curd looks quite pale in the picture above...in reality it is a lovely pastel pink color. 

BLOOD ORANGE CURD

• zest of 4 blood oranges
• 3/4 cup freshly squeezed blood orange juice
• 3/4 cup sugar
• pinch salt
• 4 eggs, room temperature
• 1 sheet of gelatin**
• 10 oz unsalted butter, soft 

METHOD

Zest blood oranges, then juice them. Put zest and juice in a pot with sugar and salt. Heat mixture on medium low. Meanwhile crack eggs into a bowl and gently whisk to mix together yolk and white. Also, bloom your sheet of gelatin in cold water.

When the blood orange juice comes to a simmer, take off the heat and pour into the eggs, while whisking. Do this to temper the eggs. Pour the entire mixture back into the pot and keep on low heat while moving the mixture with a spatula to thicken. Take care it does not curdle. Thicken until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat. Add gelatin and stir in - it should dissolve quickly.

Immediately strain into a food processor (use your finest mesh strainer and press through with a spatula). Turn the food processor on and drop knobs of butter until it is all incorporated. While not totally necessary I strain the mixture a second time (once the butter is added) into a clean bowl. Cover directly with plastic and chill in refrigerator overnight. 

**I much prefer using gelatin sheets (Gelita brand from Germany) to powdered gelatin. If they are unavailable to you at your local store, they are available through many online speciality food shops. If you don't want to buy a whole box, you can buy 20 sheets from King Arthur Flour. 

Lemon Ricotta Pancakes + Blueberry Maple Syrup

It's wedding season again and in a few weeks I'll be heading back to the States for the East Coast to attend the first of four weddings this year. It's been two years since I've been to New York City, a.k.a. My Absolute Favorite City for Eating. When I go to NYC I do very little besides trying local favorites and hot new restaurants - its research! What other city has restaurants and eateries featuring every type of cuisine imaginable or businesses simply dedicated to rice pudding or macaroni & cheese? Unfortunately, last time my gluttonous indulgences had very serious consequences, including me spending a week in the hospital. So, I've had to tone down my NYC eating tours. 

While brunch is a must in NYC, its probably one of the first things I'm willing to give up. Why? Because brunch foods are so easily created at home. Not to mention the fact that as I get older I find I don't have the patience to wait an hour in line for much and certainly not for the first meal of the day.

In anticipation for missed brunches in NYC I'm getting my fix at home. Tender and rich ricotta pancakes with a touch of sugar and lemon, smothered in warmed blueberry maple syrup. And, no waiting in line.

This recipe is adapted from New York City's Five Points Restaurant, a popular spot for weekend brunch. This recipe serves 4 people.

LEMON RICOTTA PANCAKES

• 2 cups ricotta, drained of any excess liquid
• 4 large eggs, separated
• zest of 1 lemon
• 3 Tbs sugar
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
• 3 1/2 ounces butter, melted and cooled to room temp
• Extra butter for the griddle

METHOD

In a large bowl whisk together the egg yolks and ricotta. Make sure that any lumps in the ricotta are whisked smooth. Whisk in lemon zest, sugar, salt, and vanilla extract. Continue using the whisk and add flour. Use the whisk as if you are using a spatula and fold in the flour, then gently whisk in the melted butter. Take care not to work the flour too much as it will make the pancakes tough. Set aside. 

In a separate bowl whip the whites. For this size recipe I whisk them by hand...its a great workout for the arms. If you are doubling the recipe its probably better to use beaters. Whip them to soft peaks. Take half the whites and fold them in ricotta mixture. Once combined, fold in the remaining whites. Be gentle as to not kill the air in the batter.

Heat griddle to medium high. Add generous amounts of butter to melt on the griddle. Scoop pancake batter onto the griddle. This pancake batter does not spread much once it hits the heat. I keep the domed batter on till it creates a golden brown crust and can be flipped. Then I press into a more thin pancake shape. Once that side is golden brown, I flip again and brown any parts on the first side that weren't browned initially.

Serve with blueberry maple syrup. This is easily made by adding fresh blueberries and maple syrup to a small sauce pan. Once it comes to a simmer take off the heat and serve with pancakes.

With warm blueberry maple syrup is my favorite way to have these pancakes, but if you omit the sugar, and cook them in small silver dollar sizes, they are a delicious blini. With a hint of lemon they are the perfect base for crème fraîche + caviar or smoked salmon.

British Spring

Yup. The picture above pretty much sums it up. Cold, wet and gloomy. But spring in Britain is more than just crap weather.

Spring in Britain means the baby lambs are in need of shepherding after a day of grazing...

Some need a little special attention...

When you live in a country where you can't expect the sun, you've just got to do what you gotta do and move on. Protect your plants with little mini-greenhouses...

And reap the rewards of the British Spring - asparagus, peas, rhubarb...

And ramsons (a.k.a. wild garlic shoots)...

Ramsons are absolutely delicious and like the sun in Britain, go as quickly as they come. They have a smooth, mellow garlic flavor and pair nicely with all the British spring populars - like asparagus and peas. Perfect for this year's Springtime Frittata.

RAMSONS, ASPARAGUS, SPRING PEA + MASCARPONE FRITTATA

• 1 Tbs butter
• 6 c loosely packed, chopped ramsons (could substitute ramps)
• 1 c fresh shelled peas
• 12 -15 tender asparagus stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
• salt and pepper, to taste
• 6 whole eggs
• 4 egg whites
• 1/2 c mascarpone cheese

METHOD

Preheat broiler in oven to medium. Whisk eggs and egg whites together with salt and pepper, set aside. Melt butter in a large non-stick, oven-safe pan. Add ramsons and saute over medium-high heat. Once wilted, drain any excess liquid. Add peas and asparagus pieces. Cook for 1 minute and reduce heat. Make sure that everything is spread evenly about the pan. Pour egg mixture over top. Leave on low heat till the bottom and sides set. As this is happening, add small dollops of mascarpone to the eggs. Once the sides are set, place in the oven under the broiler till the top sets and browns gently. Remove from oven. Let sit for a few minutes and then remove from pan and serve. Can be refrigerated and served cold, but I prefer it warm. 

With a great, non-stick pan (my eight-year-old All Clad non-stick, which has traveled thousands of miles and lived in many countries still does the trick). You can loosen the frittata with a flexible rubber spatula and slip it out of the pan. Or you could flip it out, but I like to see the bits of mascarpone. You could also use a mild cheddar, but I wouldn't use a stronger cheese as it will over power the delicate flavors of the springtime greens. 

And, on those cold rainy spring days, sometimes you need a treat with a little zest that puts a zing in your step. Like lemon poppy seed cake...

LEMON POPPY SEED CAKE

• 6 oz unsalted butter, room temp
• 2/3 c sugar, divided equally into two parts
• 4 eggs separated
• 2/3 c yogurt (full-fat) plain or lemon flavored 
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 2 Tbs lemon juice
• 1 c AP flour
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 1/3 c poppy seeds
• zest of 3 lemons

METHOD

Zest three lemons and juice one to get 2 Tbs lemon juice. Sift together drys and add poppy seeds and lemon zest - set aside. Separate eggs and leave whites aside. Combine the yolks in a different bowl with the yogurt, vanilla extract, and lemon juice - set aside. Beat or paddle the butter with half (1/3 c) of the sugar until light and fluffy. Beat on low and alternate adding the yolk mixture and the drys mixture. Once combined, do not over beat - set aside. Clean your beaters or change to a whisk attachment on your KitchenAid (this is when having an extra bowl makes life so much easier!). Beat egg whites to medium peaks, sprinkling in the remaining sugar once the eggs get really frothy. Sacrifice some of the whipped whites into the yolk/drys mixture to lighten it. Then fold in the rest. Bake at 350F till cooked through and dark golden brown. I made 2 small rounds in paper molds (25-30min), but this will make one 9-inch cake (40-45min).

This cake must sit for a day. Once its cooled wrap it up in plastic and set aside in the fridge. Don't look at it or attempt to eat it for 24 hours. Not sure what it is but a good cake out of the oven turns into something amazing if you wait. You can have it plain or with a little bit of vanilla buttercream. I just beat room temp butter till its pale and then sprinkle powdered sugar (to taste) and a bit of vanilla bean and splash of vanilla extract. To frost - trim any dome off the top. Cut the top half off the cake. Frost the middle, put the top half back on, and frost the top and sides. 

Key Lime Pie

Well, let me just start by saying this is not a Key Lime Pie. It's a Lime Pie, but how lame does that sound? Forgive me. I'm nowhere near the Florida Keys. And, I've had a terrible time of finding graham crackers in London and even when I was living in California, Key Limes weren't always easy to procure. Unofficial polls show that some can't tell the difference and some prefer the regular limes. Enough with excuses, bottom lime, I had an unexplainable craving for this tart, tangy, and sweet pie.

Key Lime Pie is so simple to make, assuming you can find the six ingredients. First, you need to smash a box of graham crackers to smithereens. You could, of course, pulse in a food processor, but as with most of my useful kitchen appliances, it's in a box 6,000 miles away. Yes, they do have food processors here in Britain, but when you see the prices and you know what you paid for one at home, you learn to improvise - a heavy duty Ziplock (if your in Europe and you've never experienced a Ziplock bag, let me know, I'll mail you one, it might just change your life) and a heavy bottomed pot. Once its finely ground, or close, pour melted butter, either into the food processor, or into your heavy duty plastic bag. Pulse or toss around till combined. Firmly press into a deep pie dish and up the sides. Bake till golden and firm - about 20 minutes at 325F. The set aside and let it cool. Reduce the oven heat to 300F.

Meanwhile, zest 9 limes and juice them to get 3/4 cup of lime juice. Depending on the juiciness of your limes you may need more or less. Using a hand whisk, combine the zest and juice. Then add the egg yolks and condensed milk. Whisk till well combined. Pour into the cooled pie shell and bake for about 20-25 minutes in a 300F oven. You want the filling to be firm and gently soft - not gooey. Let it cool completely and then refrigerate overnight (or, for at least 4 hours).

Whip cream to soft-medium peaks and spread all over the cooled pie. Grate fresh lime zest over the top. Cut and serve.

You could always use the egg whites and make a meringue topping. However, this should be sweetened, which I find to be too much sweetness with the condensed milk filling. I find the cold, unsweetened whipped cream to be the perfect accompaniment.

KEY LIME PIE 

CRUST

• 1 box of graham crackers (14.4 oz box)
• 7 oz of butter, melted and cooled

FILLING

• 3 Tbs packed, grated lime zest
• 3/4 c freshly squeezed lime juice
• 2 cans condensed milk (14 oz each)
• 9 egg yolks, room temp

I recommend getting about 10 regular limes, reserving one for fresh grating at the end. If you are using key limes you will probably need 18-20, as they are smaller and often drier. 

TOPPING

• 1 1/2 c cold heavy cream, whipped to serve

See above for method.

Lemon Loaf

I was never a huge a fan of lemony desserts. I find too often that the pucker of the lemon is masked by extreme sweetness, or a cloying custardy goo. Lemon souffle cakes, curds, and bars are hit or miss. At the same time, I love the zesty freshness of citrus. A half-grapefruit, fresh-squeezed orange juice, or hot water with honey + lemon in the winter seems to be cleansing and keeps the flu bugs at bay. With the perfect amount of sugar and fat, lemon is absolutely delicious in desserts. 

Lemon loaf is something I come back to every winter and my recipe has been tweaked many times along the way. I almost always used buttermilk for my lemon loaves in the past, but the buttermilk here in England seems to be a different consistency, making for a loaf too dense for my tastes. So, this year, I've been using whole milk and bit more lemon juice instead. I use quite a bit of lemon zest too, because when I'm eating lemon loaf I want it to be really, really lemony.

 LEMON LOAF

• 1/2 c (4oz) butter, room temp
• 1 c (scant) sugar
• 2 large eggs, room temp
• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 
• 1/4 c lemon zest from unwaxed lemons, gently packed (I used the zest of six lemons!)
• 1 1/2 c all-purpose flour
• 1/4 tsp baking soda
• 1/4 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/4 c lemon juice, freshly squeezed, and divided in half
• 1/4 c + 2 Tbs whole milk, room temp
• 2 Tbs honey

METHOD

Combine dry ingredients and set aside. Combine whole milk and half the lemon juice, or 1/8 c (2Tbs), and set aside (you are sort of making your own buttermilk here). Cream together butter and sugar till light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time. Add extract and lemon zest. Alternate adding dry mixture and milk mixture to the batter. Once all combined, pour in loaf pans. I'm using small paper loaf pans, but if you are using regular loaf pans, butter them well before pouring in the batter. Makes one large loaf, or two small loaves (15cmx7cmx5cm).

Bake at 350F for about 35-40 minutes. The top should be golden brown and an inserted skewer should come out clean. Meanwhile, whisk together honey and lemon juice.

A few minutes after removing from oven, stick a skewer throughout the cake to create small holes (this will help distribute the honey + lemon juice syrup throughout the loaf). Brush honey + lemon syrup over top. Use all the syrup. 

***A few tips when working with citrus in pastry...

First, its generally best to work with everything at room temperature. Leave your eggs and butter out overnight and your milk out a few hours before starting. Make sure your citrus is room temperature as well. 

Second, use the real stuff. Freshly squeeze all your own citrus. It's absolutely worth it and you need the zest anyway!

When life gives you lemons, make lemonade lemon loaf!