On our last trip to Northern Italy we made it as far south as Florence, missing the Tuscan countryside and Siena. With summer crowds gone, lingering warm weather, and Chianti crush in full swing, we thought early October would be the perfect time to explore this area of Italy. I'm not a Chianti expert, but the key and sometimes only varietal is Sangiovese. These clusters are eeking out the last of the Tuscan sun, as they are to be harvested in a matter of days!
After harvest these grapes may or may not be blended with others. Once certain alcohol level and age requirements are met, these fruits of the vine will be Chianti or Chianti Classico. Chianti is often served in a rounded bottle and covered with straw - like below.
We enjoyed our Chianti with bruschetta, gnocchi, pork chops, chicken cacciatore, roast pumpkin, and whole roasted onion.
We stayed in a Tuscan villa outside of Siena's old city limits, but close enough that we could walk into town. Siena is home to one of the most amazing and ornately decorated Duomos. I found the mosaic floor to be the most impressive and we were lucky that all were uncovered for us to view. The amazing mosaics cover nearly the entire floor of the main cathedral and depict some amazing scenes. The floor is only uncovered for a few weeks out of the year, usually at the end of summer or early fall.
I love European towns with rich histories where evidence of happenings and traditions from thousands of years ago still exist. Like the Palio Horse Race of Siena that has happened since Medieval Times. Siena is comprised of 17 contrada, or city wards. Each neighborhood spans a few streets and have existed since the Middle Ages. While the contrada were originally formed for security, protection, and administrative purposes thousands of years ago, today tradition and deep nostalgic emotion keep the neighborhoods and their rivalries alive. This rivalry culminates in the Palio Horse Race, where ten neighborhoods are chosen to race their horse in the city's main piazza - Piazza del Campo. I highly recommend checking out the many video clips of the race which are all over the net.
On the evening we were in town, the center of the Piazza played host to a dinner for hundreds and in commemoration of this year's winner - the contrada represented by the mascot of the Owl. It was a huge event, especially since this was the Owl's first win in 30 years! Other mascots include a porcupine, snail, eagle, and my personal favorite the she-wolf (Lupa).
Siena is named after Senius, the son Remus. One of my favorite stories from mythology is the story of Romulus and Remus. Remus, and his brother Romulus (of which Rome was named after), were twin brothers born to the God of War, Mars, and the Vestal Virgin Rhea Silva. As a Vestal Virgin, Rhea Silva was to remain celibate, and claimed that Mars had seduced her, and thus the twins were conceived. When her uncle, Amulius, heard of this he ordered the death of the baby twins. He had overthrown her father, who was King, and Amulius feared that sons of Rhea Silva might challenge his throne.
A servant was ordered by Amulius to kill Romulus and Remus, but could not and instead sent them down the Tiber river. A she-wolf, who had lost her own cubs, suckled Romulus and Remus and kept them alive. Figures of Lupa nursing Romulus and Remus are found all over town and is the emblem of Siena.
A bit more on some of the food we had in Chianti region in a few days time.
The photos are great to look at, along with the back story. Looking forward to the food.
Posted by: The Duo Dishes | Tuesday, October 06, 2009 at 12:24 AM
Such a beautiful country, we'll visit Tuscany this coming month for a week then go off to Israel to visit my mum inlaw. This is article of yours is really helpful. Thank you!
Posted by: elra | Tuesday, October 06, 2009 at 01:12 AM
Oh! Nice pictures, bring me memories of my trip so Sienna. Thank you so much for sharing it :-)
Posted by: Juliana | Tuesday, October 06, 2009 at 09:54 PM
What a great time to visit Siena. I'd love to see the race! And, sangiovese wines are so good. Sounds like so much fun.
Posted by: lisaiscooking | Tuesday, October 06, 2009 at 11:40 PM
Beautiful pictures and I Love the mythology! Would love to visit Tuscany sometime soon!
Posted by: Natasha - 5 Star Foodie | Wednesday, October 07, 2009 at 03:40 PM
More traveling! Lucky you. It's been many years since I was in Tuscany and I miss it so. Maybe one day soon I will be able to return there and Siena, which I somehow missed the first time around.
Posted by: Darina | Wednesday, October 07, 2009 at 05:39 PM
Marvelous travelogue for us to enjoy! So far, I have not yet managed to set foot in continental Europe but you've certainly done your part to stoke a desire to do so someday soon. It sounds as if you chose a perfect time for your Siena trip - great weather, few crowds and the unveiling of the mosaic floor. And is that a handwritten menu? Very cool!
Posted by: Tangled Noodle | Thursday, October 08, 2009 at 02:44 AM
Thank you for the amazing tour! I'm living vicariously through you! I've yet to be in Europe, but some day, I shall hit every of these places!
Posted by: sophia | Thursday, October 08, 2009 at 05:12 AM
You definitely had a wonderful time!! :)
Posted by: mycookinghut | Thursday, October 08, 2009 at 07:33 PM
What a beautiful part of Italy and I adore Siena! Stunning pictures and you are making me dream! Can't wait to see the food!
Posted by: Jamie | Friday, October 09, 2009 at 09:53 AM
I went to Siena a couple of years ago. Unfortunately I missed the horse race but I loved the city especially the old medieval square. I love your pictures!
Posted by: Sam | Friday, October 09, 2009 at 09:25 PM
Lovely pictures from your trip!! I love Italy but haven't been in Siena before,..
Posted by: Sophie | Saturday, October 10, 2009 at 10:47 PM
What a wonderful culinary adventure - love the grape photos (took a few in Mendicino myself this weekend) The race sounds like a stellar event to witness and that statue of Senius I swear I've seen before. I am so happy to be living the La Vita Dolce vicariously through you - what fun. Cannot wait to see where your travels take you next.
Posted by: OysterCulture | Thursday, October 15, 2009 at 02:28 AM
OysterCulture - Yahoo! Your comment appeared! Oh, Mendicino...I'm a bit jealous of our California livin' right now, especially since its arctic in London today! We saw at least 20 of that very similar statue all around Siena and Tuscany. I even saw one just like last year in Voss, Norway. That's when I learned of the story and fell in love with it.
Posted by: gastroanthropologist | Friday, October 16, 2009 at 03:24 PM
These are incredible pictures! They got me excited for my vacation. My boyfriend and I just booked a Tuscany villa rental for 2 weeks this summer. I can't wait to try a lot of different foods and lots of wine!
Posted by: lauren jonczak | Friday, January 17, 2014 at 02:50 PM