Zuppa di Broccoli + Gnocchetti di Ricotta

There aren't many things I would admit I can't do or don't do well when it comes to food. I will try it, I will attempt to make it, I will master it. Gnocchi, however, is one thing I'll admit I have yet to master. I can never get it as soft, fluffy, and tasty as I want it. The absolute best gnocchi I've ever had was at Lupa in New York City. It was a ricotta gnocchi that was so delicious I wanted to order a second helping. Have you ever asked for a second order of something at a restaurant because it was so good?

It had to be recreated. At home in California I've got a cookbook collection that would put most bookstores to shame. Each cookbook falls in and out of my favor depending on my mood or the season. When I moved to London none of the cookbooks made it with me so I started a new collection. It began with Giorgio Locatelli's Made in Italy. He goes into great detail about the history of many of the dishes and ingredients he uses.

Locatelli is an Italian chef who has trained with some of best here in London. He has a wonderful broccoli soup with ricotta dumplings that sort of remind me of Lupa's ricotta gnocchi. It's simple and in the soup it doesn't really matter if you haven't perfectly mastered the gnocchi. The soup part is a bit involved in order to keep it bright green. Omit the "broccoli breadcrumb" part if your OK with the color broccoli soup tends to turn when heated. This adapted recipe serves 4 starter sized portions. 

ZUPPA DI BROCCOLI + GNOCCHETTI DI RICOTTA adapted from Giorgio Locatelli

• 150 g (about 3/4 c) ricotta cheese
• 3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil 
• 1 small onion, thinly sliced 
• 1 leek, thinly sliced 
• 1 large potato or equivalent of, thinly sliced 
• 1 large head of broccoli, plus a few small florets (blanched), to garnish 
• 4 c of vegetable stock (I used chicken stock) 
• 1 egg, beaten 
• 1 Tbs freshly grated Parmesan 
• salt and pepper 

METHOD

Remove ricotta from its container and let any excess moisture drain in fine sieve or cheesecloth. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a soup pan, add the onion, leek and potato, and sweat for 5 minutes, until soft but not colored.

Trim broccoli and peel stalks. Remove a few small florets for garnish. Set aside. With a small knife, scrape off the very tops of all the other florets - so you have a mound that looks like green breadcrumbs. Set aside. Finely chop of the stalks and rest of the florets and add to soup pan. Sweat all vegetables for another 5 minutes. Add the stock and cook until the vegetables are completely soft (about 15 minutes).

In a separate pan, boil enough water to blanch the 'green breadcrumbs'. Put them in a sieve and dip them in boiling water for 10-15 seconds only, just to soften them up. Drain and, while still warm, crush them with the back of a knife until you have a bright green paste. Add a little water, if necessary, to loosen. Blanch the florets you've set aside for garnish for about 20 seconds in the same boiling water.

Take the pan containing the vegetables from the heat and put into a food processor or use immersion blender until smooth (soup will be pale green).

Put the egg, ricotta, and Parmesan into a bowl and mix together well. Keep on the side.

Return the soup to the heat and season if necessary. Turn down the heat to a simmer and whisk in the green paste of broccoli so that the soup turns bright green. Taste the soup and adjust seasonings.

Dip a teaspoon in hot water and scoop out little quenelles of the ricotta mixture. Drop them into the hot soup and let them rise to the surface (about 15-20 seconds). Gently ladle the soup into bowls, taking care not to break the ricotta dumplings, which will be quite fragile. Add the blanched florets and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil if desired. 

Comments

[Natasha - 5 Star Foodie]

This soup sounds sooo good especially with those scrumptious gnocchi - yum!

[elra]

I never made ricotta gnochi before, I'd like to try this. Sounds so delicious.
Cheers,
Elra

[Chez US]

Came here looking for 3 course pancakes and found this FANTASTIC soup!! I want it!

[Sam]

I've never tried making gnocchi I can just imagine it all going terribly wrong!
Is Made In Italy worth buying? I've heard good things about that book.

[Daily Spud]

I have to admit that I've never tried to make gnocchi (gotta do it someday - it is one of those potato classics after all!). The soup sounds great, especially the trick with the broccoli breadcrumbs. Mmmm.

[gastroanthropologist]

5 Star Foodie - And healthy!

Elra - I think the ricotta gnocchi would work with other pureed soups too!

Chez Us - Pancake pictures didn't look so hot so I skipped the post on it, but I'm working on the photography skills so next time I have a pancake dinner I will report on it!

Sam - I totally recommend the book. Locatelli is so good at explaining things and many of the recipes are quite simple. I've found it quite useful living in Europe as he is in London so the ingredients are quite easy to procure and seasonally mindful.

Daily Spud - Pototo gnocchi - one of my favorites, but I have so much practice to do! Mine are always gummy. I've been trying to use more varities, partly because of your encouragement, so I'm hoping to find the perfect pototo for soft, fluffy, melt in your mouth gnocchi.

[Chuck]

The soup is simply stunning. I wish I had this recipe when I owned my Soup and Sandwich shop. I would have been a real hit ... I'm sure! Very Nice!

[Lori]

I love gnocchi. I have made it a couple times myself, but I can't say it was an absolute success. I need to perfect my skill as well and also make a smaller batch. I didn't think I was ever going to get it all rolled out!

This soup sounds amazing. I love the addition of ricotta. I have to put it on my to-make list. Thanks!

[Cate]

I've been looking for something savory and different to do with the broccoli in our crisper. This sounds absolutely delightful. Thank you!

[Tangled Noodle]

Hmmmm . . . if a chef of your caliber feels she has yet to master gnocchi, I think I will work on my skills a bit more before I try it. However, I'm all over this broccoli soup! It looks incredibly appealing (the green color whets my appetite); I would not hesitate to use the 'crumbs'. The absence of dairy is a welcome change from the usual 'cream of broccoli' soups I come across.

[OysterCulture]

That dish looks incredible. I'm with you on attempting to make and moving on to master. I have not master gnocchi yet. I contribute part of my problem is reading the secrets of all the so called experts - none of the secrets are the same - I look at what they describe and wonder if they're talking the same dish. As far as order seconds, I sure have wanted too, but my husband clamped his hand over my mouth and promised me we'd return soon.

I too have a cookbook collection that that exceeds 101 cookbooks by more than a bit, but I cannot stop acquiring as I get such inspiration.

I look forward to hearing about the titles that you've included in your second collection.

[Selba]

Yummm... looks yummy and healthy!

[The Duo Dishes]

You always create a delicious masterpiece. This soup would be perfect on today's gray day.

[Gastroanthropologist]

Chuck - I've always wanted a Soup & Sandwich shop!

Lori - I think that's key: make small batches... starting with too much causes me to overwork the dough and it gets tough.

Cate - It's always great to find new broccoli recipes... especially the ones that don't totally ruin the integrity of the original vegetable!

Tangled Noodle - Finally a soup with broccoli that isn't cream of... With the ricotta it's not missed at all.

Oyster - My husband does the same, he also always says he'll just have one bite of whatever dessert I've convinced him I need to try. If I give the first bite, I get a plate pushed in front of me a few minutes later with a few crumbs left!

The second collection is coming around a bit more slowly... I'm trying to only get books that I don't have access to in the US. Its not many - most books are available in both countries. My newest addition in The Cheese Room by Michelson.

Selba - Thanks. I think its one of the most healthiest broccoli soups I've come across.

Duo Dishes - Soups are the best parts of gray days. Warms you up inside and you can forget there is no sun for a few minutes.

[Sophie]

This soup looks so yummie:)!!! Very interesting!MMMMM.... I love broccoli! I haven't made ricotta gnocchi yet, but I will try them! thanks!!

[Katie]

Any try at Gnocchi is very brave in my book!

[we are never full]

wow... this looks great. i'm even imagining these gorgeous gnocchi with just a broccoli sauce. and, yes, i have most definitely wanted to order seconds at a nice, expensive restaurant before. in fact it was at another batali restaurant - babbo. and it was his ostrich ravioli. daaaamn!

[gastroanthropologist]

we are never full - love babbo! ostrich ravioli - adding it to my list of things I need to try.